Potterton Performa 24 Eco HE Fault codes & diagnostics

32 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Combi Natural Gas 24 kW 2007-2011 Discontinued
GC Number 47-393-09

Replaced by: Promax Combi HE Plus

This boiler uses LED flash patterns

Count the flashes in one repeating group before the pause. That number is your fault code. Do not reset until you have noted it. How to read fault codes →

Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
1 Emergency 26 High 4 Medium 1 Low
Just want the most common Potterton Performa 24 Eco HE faults?
The top 6 problems in plain English — with causes, DIY checks and repair costs.
Fault codes

All 32 documented codes

Tap any card for details

LED / flash-pattern codes
neon flashing

Your boiler has detected that water isn't moving through the system correctly, which has caused it to stop working to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler; it should be between 1 and 1.5 bar.
  2. If the pressure is too low, use the filling loop underneath the boiler to top it up.
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air that might be blocking water flow.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Primary flow switch diaphragm
  • Flow sensor
  • Circulation pump
Full explanation for neon flashing
neon flashing (Section B/C)

Your boiler is failing to circulate water correctly, which means it cannot produce hot water or heating.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Primary flow switch microswitch
  • Diverter valve
Full explanation for neon flashing (Section B/C)
neon flashing (Section D)

Your boiler has detected that the internal fan responsible for safely removing exhaust gases is struggling to spin at the right speed, so it has shut down to keep your home safe.

High Engineer only £150-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Venturi
Full explanation for neon flashing (Section D)
neon flashing (Section E)

Your boiler is failing to light because it cannot detect the necessary airflow required to safely clear exhaust gases.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air pressure switch
  • Venturi
  • Flue fan
Full explanation for neon flashing (Section E)
neon flashing (Section H/K)

Your boiler is trying to start but failing to light the flame, so it has safely shut down to prevent a gas buildup.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Ignition lead
  • PCB
Full explanation for neon flashing (Section H/K)
neon flashing (Section I)

Your boiler is attempting to light the flame, but it is going out almost immediately, which means it cannot provide heat or hot water.

High Engineer only £150-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Flame rectification probe
  • Gas valve
  • PCB
Full explanation for neon flashing (Section I)
neon flashing (Section J)

Your boiler has switched itself off because it has detected an unsafe build-up of heat in either the water system or the exhaust flue.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat thermostat
  • Primary flow sensor
  • Domestic hot water heat exchanger
  • Pump
Full explanation for neon flashing (Section J)
neons flashing

Your boiler has sensed it is getting too hot and has shut itself down as a safety precaution.

High DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are open and not turned to zero.
  2. Ensure there is enough water pressure indicated on the boiler's pressure gauge (typically 1 to 1.5 bar).
  3. Turn the selector switch to the 'Reset' position for five seconds, then turn it back to the 'On' position.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Flue Thermostat
  • Main Circulation Pump
Full explanation for neons flashing
Digital codes
10

Your boiler's temperature sensor for hot water has stopped working correctly, meaning your taps might not get warm or the temperature could be inconsistent.

Medium Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water (DHW) NTC Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness
Full explanation for 10
24

Your boiler has stopped working because it either cannot detect a flame to heat the water or the internal drainage pipe for waste water is blocked.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances in your home are working to ensure your gas supply is active.
  2. Inspect the white plastic pipe (condensate pipe) leading outside to see if it is frozen or blocked.
  3. Turn the control knob to the 'R' (Reset) position for five seconds and then back to the 'On' position.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Flame Sensing Lead
  • Condensate Trap
Full explanation for 24
Showing 11–20 of 32
25

Your boiler has switched itself off because it is getting too hot inside, likely due to a circulation problem or a sensor fault.

High DIY-safe £90-250

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure your system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  3. Turn the selector switch to 'Reset' for five seconds and then back to the original position

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • Flue Sensor
Full explanation for 25
26

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot safely clear away waste gases, likely due to an issue with the air fan or the exhaust vent.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Air pressure switch
  • Flue venturi
Full explanation for 26
27

Your boiler has detected that there is not enough water pressure or the pump isn't circulating water through the system properly.

High DIY-safe £0-280

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler; it should ideally be between 1 and 1.5 bar.
  2. If the pressure is too low, use the filling loop valves underneath the boiler to top it up slowly.
  3. Bleed any trapped air from your radiators and then re-check the pressure gauge.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Water Pressure Sensor
  • Automatic Air Vent

Related codes

Full explanation for 27
28

Your boiler is struggling to monitor the temperature of your hot water, which usually means it won't be able to provide consistent hot water to your taps.

Medium Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water (DHW) NTC Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness
Full explanation for 28
29

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water flowing through your radiators, which prevents the heating from running correctly.

Medium Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central Heating NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Sensor Clip
  • Wiring Harness
Full explanation for 29
Air Flow Monitor Neon

Your boiler has detected an issue with how it is venting exhaust gases, which has caused it to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check the external flue pipe on the outside wall for any visual obstructions like bird nests, leaves, or debris.
  2. Ensure there is nothing leaning against or covering the flue terminal.
  3. Turn the selector switch to the reset position for five seconds and then back to the required setting.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Fan Assembly
  • Venturi Tube
Full explanation for Air Flow Monitor Neon
Below Minimum

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the heating system has dropped too low.

High DIY-safe £80-150

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop, which is a silver braided hose under your boiler connecting two pipes.
  2. Open the valves on both ends of the hose to allow water into the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler until the needle reaches the green zone (typically 1.0 to 1.5 bar).
  4. Close both valves tightly and remove the hose if required.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure relief valve
  • Expansion vessel
Full explanation for Below Minimum
Burner Failure

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot light the internal flame needed to heat your water.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition lead
  • Spark electrode
  • Gas valve
  • PCB
Full explanation for Burner Failure
E01

Your boiler has tried to light but failed, meaning it cannot currently provide any heating or hot water.

High DIY-safe £100-£280

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas supply is active (e.g., check other gas appliances like a hob)
  2. If you have a prepaid meter, ensure you have credit and the valve is open
  3. Press and hold the reset button for at least 5 seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Flame Sensing Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
Full explanation for E01
E02

Your boiler has safety-tripped because it has detected an overheating issue within the internal system.

High DIY-safe £120-£280

What to check first

  1. Check that your home's radiator valves are fully open.
  2. Ensure there is enough water pressure in the system (typically between 1 and 1.5 bar).
  3. Turn the control knob to the 'Reset' position, hold for five seconds, and release.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulating Pump
  • Main Heat Exchanger
Full explanation for E02
Showing 21–30 of 32
Fan Failure

Your boiler has stopped working because the mechanical fan that pushes stale air out of the flue and draws in fresh air is not spinning or being detected.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue fan assembly
  • Air pressure switch
  • Wiring harness / PCB
Full explanation for Fan Failure
Flame Failure

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot light its internal flame, which means you currently have no heating or hot water.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board
Full explanation for Flame Failure
Flame Failure Neon

Your boiler has tried to light but either failed to start or cannot detect that a flame is present, often due to a lack of gas or a drainage issue.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas meter has credit and that the gas emergency control valve is open.
  2. Turn the selector switch to the 'Reset' position, hold for five seconds, then turn it back to the 'On' position.
  3. Check that the external condensate pipe is not frozen if it is winter.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Flame sensing lead
  • Condensate trap
Full explanation for Flame Failure Neon
Low Water Pressure

Your boiler has lost the water pressure it needs to circulate heat, which means it will stop working until you top it back up.

High DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (a flexible silver hose) underneath the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the valve(s) to allow mains water into the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge rise to the green zone (between 1 and 1.5 bar) and then tightly close the valves.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure relief valve
  • Expansion vessel
Full explanation for Low Water Pressure
neon illuminated

Your boiler is receiving electrical power and is switched on, but it is currently in standby mode waiting for a signal to provide heat or hot water.

Low DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. Check that your room thermostat is turned up higher than the current room temperature.
  2. Ensure the heating programmer or timer is set to 'ON' or 'AUTO'.
  3. Check that the thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs) are turned open.

Parts commonly replaced

  • External Room Thermostat
  • Timer/Programmer
  • Diverter Valve

Related codes

Full explanation for neon illuminated
Power Failure

Your boiler has lost its electrical supply or there was a temporary interruption in power that has caused the system to shut down.

Medium DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check if other appliances in your home have power
  2. Ensure the boiler's fused spur switch is turned on
  3. Check your consumer unit/fuse box for any tripped switches
  4. Turn the selector switch on the boiler to 'Reset' for five seconds, then back to the on position

Parts commonly replaced

  • 3A Fuse
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
Full explanation for Power Failure
Pressure Gauge 3 or greater

Your boiler has too much water inside it, causing the pressure to reach a dangerously high level where the safety valve must release water.

Emergency DIY-safe £100-250

What to check first

  1. Check that the internal or external filling loop valves are tightly closed
  2. Switch off the boiler and allow radiators to cool
  3. Bleed a radiator or drain water from a radiator drain-off point to reduce pressure to 1.5 bar
  4. If pressure continues to rise after draining, turn off the mains water stopcock and call an engineer

Parts commonly replaced

  • Expansion Vessel
  • Pressure Relief Valve (PRV)
  • Filling Loop
Full explanation for Pressure Gauge 3 or greater
Pressure Gauge below 0.5

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure is too low, often caused by a small leak or air in the radiators.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the silver braided filling loop underneath or near the boiler
  2. Slowly open the one or two taps on the filling loop until you hear water entering
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the taps when it reaches 1.5 bar

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop valve
  • Automatic air vent
  • Expansion vessel
Full explanation for Pressure Gauge below 0.5
Pump/Low Pressure Neon

Your boiler has stopped working because there is not enough water pressure in the system or the internal pump cannot move water around your radiators.

High DIY-safe £60-320

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler; it should ideally be between 1 and 1.5 bar.
  2. If the pressure is low, locate the filling loop (a flexible silver hose) under the boiler and slowly open the valves until the needle reaches 1 bar.
  3. Turn the selector switch to the reset position for five seconds, then back to the heating or hot water position.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Water Pressure Switch
  • Expansion Vessel
Full explanation for Pump/Low Pressure Neon
Safety Thermostat Neon

Your boiler has switched itself off because it has detected that it is getting too hot inside.

High DIY-safe £100-250

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are open and not blocked
  2. Turn the selector switch to the 'Reset' position and hold for at least five seconds
  3. Ensure the system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge

Parts commonly replaced

  • Limit Thermostat (Overheat Stat)
  • Circulating Pump
  • Central Heating Return Filter
Full explanation for Safety Thermostat Neon
Showing 31–32 of 32
Sensor Fault

Your boiler is struggling to accurately read its own temperature, so it has shut down to prevent overheating while it waits for a repair.

High Engineer only £120-200

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Thermistor
  • Temperature Sensor
Full explanation for Sensor Fault
Sensor Fault Neon

Your boiler's internal thermometers are struggling to read the temperature correctly, which is preventing it from heating your home or water safely.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Thermistor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness
Full explanation for Sensor Fault Neon