Baxi 600 Combi (range) Fault codes & diagnostics

20 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Combi Natural Gas 24-36 kW 2015 onwards Discontinued
GC Numbers 47-077-1847-077-19
Download the Baxi 600 Combi (range) manual The official installation & service manual (PDF) — the exact document these fault codes were verified against. PDF

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19 High 1 Medium

All 20 documented codes

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09

Your boiler has stopped working because the internal computer has lost contact with the unit that controls the gas supply.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve wiring harness
  • Gas valve
  • Main PCB

Related codes

15

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot properly control the flow of gas needed to light the flame.

High Engineer only £220-380

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Spark generator
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

20

Your boiler's temperature sensor for the heating system has developed a fault, preventing the unit from knowing how hot the water is.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central Heating NTC Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness

Related codes

28

Your boiler has detected a sensor problem that prevents it from monitoring the temperature of the exhaust gases, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-190

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue NTC Thermistor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

40

Your boiler has detected a problem with a sensor that monitors the temperature of the water returning from your radiators.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return NTC thermistor (sensor)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

109

Your boiler is struggling to move water around the system properly before it starts the main heating process, usually due to a blockage or a pump issue.

High Engineer only £150-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Main Heat Exchanger
  • Flow Temperature Sensor

Related codes

110

Your boiler has switched itself off because it has detected that the water inside the system has become too hot to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to flow.
  2. Check that the system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the gauge; top up if necessary.
  3. Turn the boiler off and on again or hold the 'Reset' button for 5 seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • Temperature Sensors (NTC)

Related codes

111

Your boiler has detected that it is running too hot and has automatically shut itself down to prevent any damage or safety issues.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Sensor
  • Pump
  • Heat Exchanger

Related codes

117

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure inside the system is currently too high, which has caused it to shut down to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Locate a radiator in your home that has a bleed valve.
  2. Place a cloth or small container under the valve and slowly open it using a radiator key.
  3. Release a small amount of water until the pressure gauge on the boiler drops back into the green zone (usually 1.0 to 1.5 bar).
  4. Close the valve and check the boiler display to see if the error has cleared.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure Relief Valve (PRV)
  • Expansion Vessel
  • Filling Loop

Related codes

118

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure is too low for it to operate safely, which is why it has stopped working.

High DIY-safe £0-160

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver flexible hose) underneath the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the one or two taps/levers on the filling loop until you hear water flowing.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the taps when the needle reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure sensor
Showing 11–20 of 20
125

Your boiler has detected that water is not moving through the system properly, which is causing it to shut down to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £150-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and isolation valves under the boiler are fully open
  3. Gently bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Pump Lead
  • Plate Heat Exchanger (Cleaning/Replacement)

Related codes

128

Your boiler has lost its flame while it was running, meaning it cannot stay alight to provide heating or hot water.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas supply is active (e.g., check other gas appliances or your meter credit)
  2. Restart the boiler by pressing the reset button for five seconds
  3. Check if the condensate pipe (the plastic pipe leading outside) is frozen or blocked

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Gas valve

Related codes

130

Your boiler has sensed that the exhaust gases are getting too hot and has shut down as a safety precaution to prevent internal damage.

High Engineer only £120-£250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue NTC Sensor
  • Heat Exchanger (cleaning or replacement)
  • Main PCB

Related codes

133

Your boiler has failed to light because it cannot get enough gas or cannot detect the flame used to heat your water.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas prepayment meter has credit and is turned on.
  2. Ensure other gas appliances in your home, like a hob, are working correctly.
  3. Press and hold the 'R' or Reset button for five seconds to restart the boiler.
  4. In winter, check that the white pipe leading outside (condensate pipe) isn't frozen.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Spark generator
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

135

Your boiler has lost its connection to the gas supply due to an internal technical fault and cannot stay lit.

High Engineer only £150-380

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Ignition Electrode

Related codes

151

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot light the internal flame or keep it burning reliably.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • PCB

Related codes

160

Your boiler has detected that the internal fan, which safely removes waste gases from the system, is not spinning correctly or has lost power.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Fan wiring harness

Related codes

321

Your boiler is struggling to accurately measure the temperature of your hot water, which usually means it can't heat your taps and showers properly.

Medium Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Hot water temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Connecting wiring harness
384

Your boiler thinks a flame is present when it should be off, which is a safety conflict that has caused the system to lock out.

High Engineer only £140-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E118

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the system has dropped too low to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver braided hose with two blue-handled valves) underneath the boiler.
  2. Slowly open both valves until you hear water entering the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close both valves firmly once the needle reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop valves
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure sensor

1 operating states & engineer diagnostics

Not faults — these are normal operating states. Tap to expand.