Potterton Powermax HE Fault codes & diagnostics

49 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Combi Natural GasLPG 24-30 kW 2001-2009 Discontinued
GC Numbers 41-389-1541-389-1641-389-17

Replaced by: Megaflo System / Baxi Platinum Combi

Download the Potterton Powermax HE manual The official installation & service manual (PDF) — the exact document these fault codes were verified against. PDF

The fault code is already on your display

Note it down before pressing reset — resetting clears the code immediately. How to read fault codes →

Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
4 Emergency 44 High 1 Low

All 49 documented codes

Tap any card for details

16

Your boiler’s internal computer has encountered a critical communication error and cannot operate safely.

High Engineer only £280-£550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Internal Wiring Harness

Related codes

19

Your boiler’s internal computer has encountered a critical communication error and cannot operate safely.

High Engineer only £280-£550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Internal Wiring Harness

Related codes

A (number)

Your boiler has detected a safety concern or internal failure and has shut itself down to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £150-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Detection electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • PCB

Related codes

A01

Your boiler has failed to ignite, meaning it cannot create the flame needed to provide you with heating or hot water.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation probe
  • Gas valve
  • Spark electrode
  • Fan assembly

Related codes

A02

Your boiler is struggling to circulate water properly or is heating up too quickly, causing it to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your primary central heating valves under the boiler are fully open
  2. Ensure all radiator valves (TRVs) are turned to the maximum setting
  3. Gently bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets
  4. Press the reset button once the system has cooled down

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flow/Return thermistor
  • Main Heat Exchanger (if scaled)

Related codes

A03

Your boiler has switched itself off because it has become too hot internally, likely due to a lack of water or a blockage preventing water from moving around the system.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler; if it is below 1 bar, top up the system using the filling loop
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are open to allow water to circulate
  3. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air and then top up the pressure again
  4. Carry out a manual reset of the boiler using the control knob

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Overheat thermostat
  • Three-way diverter valve

Related codes

A04

Your boiler has shut down because it has either gotten too hot or it is unable to supply gas to the burner.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

A05

Your boiler's electronic brain has detected an internal safety error and has shut down for protection.

High DIY-safe £250-£450

What to check first

  1. Locate the power switch for the boiler and turn it OFF
  2. Wait for 30 seconds, then turn the power back ON
  3. Press the 'RESET' button on the boiler control panel

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Control Board (PCB)
  • Control Panel Assembly

Related codes

A07

Your boiler has detected an issue with how the fuel is burning or how the main heat exchanger is performing, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £140-£320

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation probe and lead
  • Gas valve
  • Heat exchanger cleaning kit

Related codes

A09-12

Your boiler's main internal computer has developed a serious communication fault and can no longer control the heating process safely.

High Engineer only £350-£550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Wiring harness
Showing 11–20 of 49
A15

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure in the central heating system is too low or a sensor has failed.

High DIY-safe £80-220

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler
  2. If the pressure is below 1.0 bar, locate the filling loop (braided silver hose) under or near the boiler
  3. Slowly open the valves to top up the water until the gauge reads between 1.0 and 1.5 bar, then close them tightly

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure Transmitter
  • Wiring Harness
  • Expansion Vessel
A18

Your boiler has stopped working because the internal computer and its sensors are no longer communicating correctly with each other.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Control Board (PCB)
  • NTC Temperature Sensors
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

A19

Your boiler is sensing a flame even after it has tried to turn the gas off, which is a safety conflict that requires a professional inspection.

Emergency Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Main PCB
  • Flame Sensor Electrode

Related codes

A20

Your boiler is detecting a flame at the wrong time, suggesting that gas might be leaking into the burner when it should be shut off.

Emergency Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Ionisation Probe
  • Spark Electrode

Related codes

A33

Your boiler has stopped working because the internal fan, which safely pushes exhaust gases out of the flue, is not spinning at the correct speed.

High Engineer only £350-£550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan Motor (Part No. 5106068)
  • Main Control Board
  • Wiring Harness
A40

Your boiler is struggling to move water through the system properly, which is causing it to shut down to prevent overheating.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • 3-Way Diverter Valve
  • Flow and Return Sensors

Related codes

A41

Your boiler has stopped working because water is not circulating through the system properly, often due to a pump issue or a closed valve.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Automatic bypass valve
  • Flow sensor

Related codes

E01

Your boiler has tried to light several times but has failed to create a flame, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances, like a hob, are working to confirm gas supply.
  2. If you have a prepaid gas meter, ensure it has credit.
  3. Press and hold the 'Reset' button for five seconds to attempt a restart.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

E03

Your boiler has shut down because it is unable to safely discharge exhaust fumes or has detected that the flue system is overheating.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air pressure switch
  • Flue thermostat
  • Venturi tube
  • Fan

Related codes

E04

Your boiler has shut itself down for safety because it tried to light several times but couldn't maintain a steady flame.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Gas valve
  • Condensate trap

Related codes

Showing 21–30 of 49
E06

Your boiler has detected an electrical fault with the sensor that monitors water flow, meaning it cannot safely determine if water is moving through the system.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow sensor
  • Sensor wiring harness
  • Control board

Related codes

E07

Your boiler is unable to read the hot water temperature correctly, meaning you likely have no hot water or unstable water temperatures.

High Engineer only £110-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW sensor assembly
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

E08

Your boiler has detected a fault with the temperature sensor for your hot water, which means it cannot safely heat the water for your taps.

High Engineer only £110-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water (DHW) sensor
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

E13

Your boiler’s internal computer has encountered a critical communication error and cannot operate safely.

High Engineer only £280-£550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Internal Wiring Harness

Related codes

E13/16/19

Your boiler's computer has detected a serious internal fault that prevents it from operating safely and reliably.

High Engineer only £250-500

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness
  • Control module

Related codes

E20

Your boiler thinks a flame is present even though it hasn't turned the gas on, usually caused by a blocked drain or a faulty sensor.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation Probe
  • Electrode Lead
  • Ignition Lead
  • Main PCB

Related codes

E21

Your boiler has detected that its electrical wires are connected the wrong way round at the power source, preventing it from starting up safely.

Emergency Engineer only £80-140

Parts commonly replaced

  • Mains power cable
  • Fused spur unit
  • PCB (if damaged by incorrect polarity)

Related codes

E22

Your boiler is detecting an issue with the quality or frequency of the electricity coming from your mains supply, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB
  • Voltage Regulator
  • External Surge Protector

Related codes

E29

Your boiler has detected an internal electrical connection problem that is preventing it from monitoring the system pressure correctly.

High Engineer only £120-£200

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure sensor cable assembly
  • 6-way plug J11 connector

Related codes

E40

Your boiler has detected that a temperature sensor responsible for monitoring water returning to the unit has disconnected or broken, preventing it from running safely.

High Engineer only £120-£200

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

Showing 31–40 of 49
E41

Your boiler has stopped working because one of its internal temperature sensors has developed an electrical fault and can no longer send information to the main control board.

High Engineer only £120-£200

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

E42

Your boiler's computer brain has encountered a serious internal error and can no longer control the heating or hot water safely.

High Engineer only £350-£550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Control PCB (Part No. 5107535)

Related codes

p < 0.5

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure in the system is too low.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually two braided hoses or internal levers under the boiler)
  2. Slowly open both taps/valves to allow water into the system
  3. Close the valves tightly once the pressure gauge on the display reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar

Parts commonly replaced

  • Automatic Air Vent
  • Expansion Vessel
  • Pressure Relief Valve
P 0.4

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the system has dropped too low to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the silver filling loop underneath or near the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the valve or valves until you hear water entering the system.
  3. Close the valves once the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop valve
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve
P 0.9

Your boiler has noticed that the water pressure is getting a bit low and needs a small top-up to keep running efficiently.

Low DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver flexible hose) underneath or near the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the valve(s) until you hear water entering the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the valves tightly once it reaches 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel re-pressurisation
P 3.1

Your boiler has reached a critically high water pressure that is unsafe for continued operation.

Emergency Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Expansion Vessel
  • Pressure Relief Valve
  • Filling Loop Tap

Related codes

P 3.1 or higher

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure inside the system is dangerously high while it is running, which can put unnecessary stress on your pipework and internal components.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure Relief Valve
  • Expansion Vessel
  • Filling Loop
P0.1-0.4

Your boiler has switched itself off because the water pressure is too low for it to run safely.

High DIY-safe £0-160

What to check first

  1. Locate the two black handles on the filling loop braided hose underneath the boiler.
  2. Slowly turn both handles to the open position until you hear water entering the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close both handles once the needle reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel
P0.1-0.4 (bar)

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the heating system has dropped too low.

High DIY-safe £80-150

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (a flexible metal hose with valves) under the boiler.
  2. Gradually open the valves to let water into the system until the pressure gauge reads between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  3. Close the valves tightly and restart the boiler.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure relief valve
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

P0.1-0.4 bar

Your boiler has lost water pressure and has shut itself down to prevent damage to the internal components.

High DIY-safe £0-180

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver flexible hose) underneath or near the boiler
  2. Slowly open the tap or taps on the filling loop until you hear water moving
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the taps firmly once it reaches 1.5 bar

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve
Showing 41–49 of 49
P0.5-0.9

Your boiler has detected that there is not enough water pressure in the central heating system to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £60-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver flexible hose) underneath or near the boiler.
  2. Open the small valves on the filling loop slowly to let water into the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the valves once the pressure reaches 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel re-pressurisation
  • Auto air vent
P0.5-0.9 (bar)

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside your heating system has dropped too low.

High DIY-safe £80-150

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop, which is a silver braided hose connecting your cold water main to your heating pipes.
  2. Open the valves on the filling loop to allow cold water into the system until the pressure gauge reads between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  3. Ensure both valves are fully closed and check your radiators for any signs of water leaks.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure relief valve
  • Pressure sensor
P0.5-0.9 bar

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure is too low, which prevents the system from running safely and efficiently.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver flexible hose) underneath or near the boiler
  2. Slowly open the one or two valves on the hose until you hear water moving
  3. Watch the display until the pressure reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar, then close the valves tightly

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop valve
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure sensor

Related codes

P3.0-3.5

Your boiler has shut down because there is too much water pressure in the central heating system.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check that the silver filling loop valves are tightly closed
  2. Bleed water from a radiator using a bleed key to reduce pressure
  3. Monitor the pressure gauge to ensure it returns to between 1 and 1.5 bar
  4. Press the reset button once the pressure is stabilised

Parts commonly replaced

  • Expansion Vessel
  • Pressure Relief Valve (PRV)
  • Filling Loop

Related codes

P3.0-3.5 (bar)

Your boiler has automatically shut down because the water pressure inside your heating system has become dangerously high.

High DIY-safe £120-250

What to check first

  1. Check that the filling loop valves are fully closed
  2. Bleed water from a radiator using a bleed key to reduce pressure
  3. Monitor the pressure gauge to ensure it returns to between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  4. Reset the boiler once the pressure is within the normal range

Parts commonly replaced

  • Expansion Vessel
  • Pressure Relief Valve (PRV)
  • Filling loop
P3.0-3.5 bar

Your boiler has shut down because there is too much water pressure in the system, which could lead to leaks if not addressed.

High DIY-safe £100-250

What to check first

  1. Check that the silver filling loop valves are tightly closed
  2. Bleed water from a radiator using a bleed key to reduce pressure
  3. Monitor the pressure gauge until it returns to between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  4. Press the reset button to restart the boiler

Parts commonly replaced

  • Expansion Vessel
  • Pressure Relief Valve (PRV)
  • Filling Loop

Related codes

RED NEON

Your boiler has shut down completely for safety reasons and will not provide heating or hot water until it is manually reset or repaired.

High DIY-safe £120-450

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button on the front control panel.
  2. Press and hold the reset button for at least two seconds.
  3. Wait to see if the green light replaces the red light and the boiler fires up.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Air Pressure Switch
Safety LOCK-OUT

Your boiler has stopped working because it failed to light the flame, so it has purposefully shut itself down for safety.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Control board
Safety shut-down

Your boiler has automatically turned itself off because the water pressure inside the heating system has fallen too low to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £80-150

What to check first

  1. Locate the external filling loop, which is a silver braided hose connecting your central heating pipes.
  2. Open the valves at both ends of the filling loop to allow cold mains water to enter the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler and close the valves once it reaches 1.0 to 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure relief valve
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure gauge

8 operating states & engineer diagnostics

Not faults — these are normal operating states. Tap to expand.